Look into your haircare cabinet, and chances are, you might have primed and perfected the basics down pat. Shampoo and conditioner are indispensable. Leave-in to add some shine to lack-lustre locks. But, when styling your tresses with a few extra steps in between, it’s hard to master the mixing and matching of some products. What should be the sequence when selecting a shine spray or styling mousse? How about heat protectants? Turns out, there's an order of application that can help you maximise the efficacy of your mane arsenal too.
With skincare, you apply the lightest product to the heaviest. For haircare, the reverse order holds true. We asked celebrity hairstylists Yianni Tsapatori and Hiral Bhatia to break down the intricate subject of layering your conditioners, creams and gels while styling your hair .
Step one: Shampoo
Shampooing may seem like a given, but styling starts in the shower. The key lies in using the correct formulation. Moisturising, damage repairing, strengthening, colour-safe, thickening—complementing the description on the bottle with your hair can be a confusing endeavour. While external factors like the weather, season and lifestyle changes can alter your haircare needs, Bhatia says the cardinal rule is: “Choosing a shampoo based on your scalp type. All you need is a coin-size amount to do the job. Avoid harsh ingredients like parabens, sulphate, chemicals—natural ingredients go a long way in protecting your hair’s health. A clarifying shampoo is your best bet if you have an oily scalp. If you have a dry scalp, consider options that promote moisture, hydration and smoothing. Treatment shampoos like anti-dandruff options should be restricted to once a week. Alternate it with a hydrating shampoo for best results.”
Step two: Mask
Do not settle for a shampoo plus conditioner routine. “You need to go deeper for that extra nourishment. Deep conditioning masks are a quick salve, whether you need some TLC, a complete overhaul from colour treatments, restore hydration of parched strands, repair heat damage, fix brittle ends or revive lifeless hair. Apply your mask before your conditioner and not after. Shampooing causes the hair follicles to open up, so slathering the mask immediately after your wash will really help the conditioning ingredients to penetrate. Leave it on for three to 20 minutes and rinse it off. Limit masking to once a week,” adds Tsapatori. Remember, if you have fine hair, relegate your masking routine to once a week or once every two weeks, or you may end up with flat, limp locks.
Step three: Conditioner
Just like the correct shampoo, the right conditioner can make or break a good hair day. “Pick a conditioner based on your hair texture. For someone with dry and fine hair, I recommend a gel-based conditioner that’s moisturising yet not super heavy. A cream-based conditioner is apt for dry, coarse hair. If your hair is particularly damaged, look for labels that promote repair, frizz control. Terms like volumising, light or balancing are good for oily tresses,” advises Bhatia.
Step four: Leave-in treatments
From velvety creams and lotions to sprays and oils, leave-in treatments come in a bevy of options. Find a formula that’s nourishing and lightweight. The correct conditioner will help preserve hair health, retain moisture and restore balance after shampooing. “Leave-in is a key step before styling your hair,” says Tsapatori. “Opt for a leave-in conditioner depending on your hair type. Use an oil followed by a serum if your hair is dry or damaged. If you have oily hair, avoid using too much product. A few drops of argan oil is my go-to for smoother, shinier strands. Start from the nape and work your way up,” he adds.
Step five: Mousse or thickening spray
Now is time to add volume. Bhatia feels mousse will be your best friend if you have fine tresses. “It works best when applied to damp hair. You can take a palm-full of mousse to scrunch it into damp hair from the bottom up or apply to the roots before blow-drying to seal in the smoothness.” she shares. “You can also spritz in a root-lift spray to add more volume.”
Step six: Heat protectant
Excessive heat from a styling tool can break your strands and cause permanent damage or hair loss. “To counter any heat to your hair and not compromise its health, make sure you use a heat protectant. It can be a spray, cream or a thermo-protecting product that gets activated with heat,” advises Bhatia. Most formulas are infused with vitamins and silicone that serve as a protective barrier over your cuticles.
Step seven: Finishing spray
“I prefer a ruffled hairdo, and for that volume and movement is key. Invest in a texturising spray or a dry shampoo for a lived-in look. If you’re trying to achieve a sleek hairstyle or old Hollywood glam waves, then go for a hair spray or a spray wax,” reveals Tsapatori. It has to be applied to bone dry strands because using hairspray on damp hair can leave it sticky and clumpy.
Also read:
10 hair products that will save you the trip to the blow-dry bar
In a rush? Here's how to air-dry your hair super quickly
How to make the most of your hair texture
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